Welcome to Abad Santos — a level crossing so extreme it makes a warzone look like a wellness retreat. Here, amid traffic that treats road rules as polite suggestions and horns as a second language, stands our crossing keeper: part traffic controller, part railway historian, and part miracle worker. While Manila swirls around him in a caffeinated haze of jeepneys, buses, motorcycles, pedestrians and the occasional vehicle that appears to have been assembled from spare emotions, he calmly goes about the noble task of stopping everything so a train can pass.
During his shift we watch the parade of steel visitors trundle through: commuter sets grinding their way in from the north, and assorted rolling stock that looks like it’s seen things it can never unsee. Each train has a story — where it’s come from, where it’s going, and how it somehow managed to make it through Metro Manila without becoming part of the traffic itself.
This isn’t just a list of trains; it’s a front-row seat to organised chaos, as seen through the eyes of the poor soul whose job is to convince Manila to stop moving… briefly… for the railway.
Nah, that's an exaggeration, a list of trains is pretty much all it is. However, it is now a snapshot back to a time that will never come again.
In March of this year, we were incredibly fortunate to be warmly hosted for a visit to the historic Hawaiian-Philippine Company sugar mill in Silay City, about 28 minutes north of Bacolod in Negros Occidental, Philippines.
Unlike our somewhat impromptu visit in 2023, this time I opted for a more official approach. With the kind support and blessing of the company chairman, we were granted the opportunity to experience what turned out to be one of the most unforgettable moments in my 26 years of exploring the railways of the Philippines.
In this thrilling installment, we have left the loading point at Colisap and make our way back to the mill for a look around the locoshed and yard.
Come join us for the ride. If you wish to see the videos of the day, as well as a lot more Philippine content, check out our PRHS TV YouTube channel.
As I have a general interest in the sugar milling industry as a whole, and have been into a couple of Aussie ones, it was fascinating to finally have the opportunity for a better look at this wonderful and historic mill.
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Are you interested in the sugarcane tramways and industry on the islands of Negros and Panay (Philippines)? Also covering the timber/sugar railways of Leyte, Cebu and Mindanao.
Preparing to depart Colisap and haul a load of cane to the mill.
Photos: Brad Peadon
Above and four below.
HPCo #2 in the ideal cane field surrounds of Negros (Philippines).
Photos: Brad Peadon
Above and four below.
Off we go, back through the fields towards the mill.
Photos: Brad Peadon
The quintessential Negros sugar industry view, looking across cane fields at a busy sugar mill hard at work.
Photos: Brad Peadon
That tree line to the left marks the former right of way for the many cane lines that once ran south of the mill, but have now regretfully all gone.
Photo: Brad Peadon
Above and two below.
Approaching, and crossing, the impressive Malisbog River bridge. The only intact bridge noted that was larger was down in Bais, but it does not look like it is still in use and information is hard to come by.
Photos: Brad Peadon
Level crossing before entering the Hawaiian-Philippine Company mill again.
Photo: Brad Peadon
Above and below.
Shunting the full cane trucks into the yard, before heading off light engine to the loco shed again..
Photos: Brad Peadon
Another rake of cane trucks waiting their turn to go out into the fields.